Carbonara with fried pork lard? Mod-Sin chef Willin Low opens new handmade pasta bar Pastaro

The godfather of mod-Sin cuisine, Willin Low, is semi-retired now. The Covid-19 pandemic has brought years of stress for the 52-year-old, who had to keep his restaurants like Relish and Five &2 in Singapore, and Roketto Niseko in Hokkaido, going during the lockdown.No part of this story or photos can be reproduced without permission from 8days.sg.
But he’s now back on homeground, having opened a two-week-old pasta bar called Pastaro. “I keep telling myself no more, but here I am,” he chuckles. “My friends said I’m like a singer who announces his retirement, then makes another comeback with a concert!”The reason for opening a new eatery, he shares, is to retain his staff from his shuttered restaurant, some of whom have been working with him since he opened his lauded restaurant, Wild Rocket, in 2005. It closed in 2018. “Two of the chefs [at Pastaro] opened Wild Rocket with me. I was thinking about how not to lose both of them, and Pastaro came about ’cos for years, we have been talking about making fresh pasta,” recounts Willin.His restaurants had been profitable, which gave him the funds to open new concepts after closing others. “We open restaurants with money we made from our restaurants. My investors are all my staff. We take a more long-term view; we hold on to more money in the bank so that when something like Covid-19 hits, we can ride it through,” he says.
The tiny, cosy 40-seater is in a pretty unique location: on the second floor of Chancery Court, above a Cold Storage supermarket. In fact, Pastaro is so obscure that Willin had to brainstorm ways to signpost his restaurant so that his diners could find it. The lift lobby leading up to it is tucked away at the back of the building, and you either have to take the lift or climb the stairs to the second floor.
That said, it feels like stumbling upon a hidden gem once we find it (Pastaro is neighbours with popular cafe Banelé). The space is decked out in warm, earthy tones with customised wooden tables and chairs, and pliant wood strips stretch this way and that across the ceiling. “It’s meant to look like pasta,” Willin says with a smile.Looking out of the tall windows in the restaurant, you can see Cold Storage’s grocery aisles and large chillers. “The special thing about this place is that you can’t tell whether it’s day or night here,” Willin points out.He modelled the space after the little eateries dotting Tokyo’s chic neighbourhoods. He explains: “It’s the kind of place that you pass by and you tell yourself, ‘I must come back here the next night to try it’. The trick is to make people feel like they are leaving the worries of the world away when they step in.”
The menu offers pure comfort food, done in Willin’s mod-Sin style. The pasta here is handmade in-house, with seven options.There is a Hokkien mee-style Singapore Fried Noodles ($26), mushroom-centric Lion Spaghettini ($18), Buah Keluak Spaghetti ($21), Miso Bolognaise Spaghetti ($22) and Spicy Vongole Fettuccine ($26).
At first glance, this is a proper plate of carbonara: freshly handmade al-dente fettuccine ribbons tossed with pancetta, parmigiana and a raw egg yolk. The Willin Low mod-Sin touch? Fried pork lard that gives the decadent dish extra crispy richness. Shiok enough for us to not want to share.
Those who have been to Western countries would have seen a curious ‘Singapore Noodles’ dish on menus (it’s a version of fried beehoon that, strangely, doesn’t exist here). Willin’s cheeky take on Singapore Fried Noodles is a riff on Hokkien mee — fresh springy prawns and firm linguine dressed in crustacean oil and a smattering of chilli flakes and kaffir lime leaves. Oh, and half a calamansi, per HKM regulations. We enjoy the chewier pasta here, which holds up better than the usual yellow noodles and thick beehoon.
According to Willin, this is a pasta dish that he makes for his friend’s kids in Niseko, artfully sprinkled with chopped walnuts and a hint of bright lemon zest. Delish, and vegetarian-friendly. The lion’s mane and pearl oyster mushrooms used are deliberately sourced from local farm/social enterprise Mushroom Buddies, which employs staff with disabilities.
No laksa is served at Pastaro, but there’s spaghetti coated with laksa pesto. Wild Rocket regulars would remember this wave-making mod-Sin dish when Willin first served it at his restaurant. Its pasta version has a 2024 update — the king prawns have been swapped with slipper lobster, but the laksa pesto is still headily punchy.
Here’s what you do with this side dish: order a beer, and start popping these little chunks of deep-fried, impossibly tender pork belly served with cincalok. Is that our cardiologist screaming in the background? We can’t hear over the crunch of these sinfully salty morsels. Order it, no regrets.
But if you want to accumulate some dietary karma points, this relatively more virtuous pick is also good. A thick slice of napa cabbage, charred, and loaded with a medley of miso butter, bonito flakes and nori. It’s a good interlude if the pasta ever gets too heavy.
The dessert menu here is no slouch. Like a good mom-and-pop eatery in Japan, there is an old-school sweet like house-made dark chocolate Lava Cake ($13), but the deceptively plain-looking purin (the charming Japlish word for pudding) blew our mind. “I had a version in Nagoya that was so good, I decided to do it with pandan and gula melaka caramel,” Willin says. Even after tucking away a few plates of pasta and fried pork belly, we found space in our tummy for this smooth, rich mod-Sin treat.Pastaro is at #02-45 Chancery Court, 36H Dunearn Rd, S309433. Open daily except Mon. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; 5.30pm-10pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am-3pm; 5.30pm-10pm. www.instagram.com/pastarobistro Photos: Aik ChenNo part of this story or photos can be reproduced without permission from 8days.sg.8days.sg is now on #tiktok! Follow us on www.tiktok.com/@8dayseat